Topical Vitamin C -- Reversing the Aging Process
Compiled by Dr. Dennis T Sepp

We all know that vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has a long and well documented history for use in the treatment of scurvy. It has also been used as an aid for the healing of wounds, to help boost the immune system, and even to help fight the common cold. It is only recently that scientific research has shown that vitamin C is also a potent anti-oxidant that is capable of preventing and possibly even reversing the effects of aging on human skin.

Of the several physiological and pharmacological effects on skin that have been documented for vitamin C, the following have direct applicability as anti-aging effects desirable in cosmetic formulations:

Vitamin C is a Potent Inhibitor of Melanogenesis

In vitro experiments have shown that vitamin C reduces the formation of melanin. Since melanin is responsible for the dark pigmentation of human skin, this result predicts that vitamin C would have a skin lightening effect. And indeed, in vivo human studies with a topically applied, stabilized form of vitamin C have demonstrated a definite skin lightening effect. As an anti-aging cosmetic ingredient, vitamin C can be used as a skin clarifier which evens skin tones and lightens the dark skin blemishes and age spots that are characteristic of aging skin. It is especially effective around the eyes. A stabilized 3% vitamin C cream is sold in Japan for exactly this purpose.

Vitamin C Plays a Key Role in Collagen Synthesis

The skin is composed of two main layers: the outermost layer is called the epidermis and the underlying connective tissue makes up the dermis. The dermis consists of cellular materials and extracellular fibers all embedded into a gel-like matrix. The fibrous material is made up of collagen fiber (approximately 75%) and elastic fiber (elastin and fibrillin). The water holding capacity of this fibrous material influences the skin's elasticity and is directly related to the formation of wrinkles. As one ages, the dermis becomes thinner and the content of collagen contained within the dermis decreases. It is well documented that vitamin C is essential for the biosynthesis of collagen by human fibroblasts (young skin cells). This ability to influence collagen synthesis in new skin is why vitamin C is used to aid in the healing of sores and wounds. It has also been documented in both in vivo and in vitro studies that vitamin C can induce collagen growth in older skin. It is for this reason that we use vitamin C as a key ingredient in our anti-aging formulations. Additionally, we expect that topically applied, high-dose vitamin C creams would also exhibit good properties for preventing and treating dry skin problems, especially for geriatric patients.

Vitamin C as an Anti-Oxidant and Free Radical Inhibitor

It has been demonstrated that when human fibroblasts are exposed to reactive oxygen species (free radicals), less collagen is produced. Wrinkles and skin sagging are commonly believed to occur as a result of the cross-linking of elastin and collagen. Free radicals are thought to be responsible for this cross-linking. Excessive exposure to UV radiation can give rise to free radicals. UV radiation penetrates deep into the skin, generating free radicals and other reactive agents which, in turn, attack and damage the lipids that make up the dermal layers beneath the surface of the skin. The body neutralizes these free radicals with vitamin C.  In vivo experiments have demonstrated that a combination of vitamin E and vitamin C is a powerful inhibitor of lipid peroxidation.

Topical vitamin C is also capable of controlling the inflammation resulting from ultraviolet exposure which eventually leads to wrinkling and skin cancer. Experiments show that topically applied vitamin C is absorbed into the dermis in levels high enough to protect the skin from UV radiation damage as measured by erythema and sunburn formation.

What is Stabilized Vitamin C?

Most of us are familiar with vitamin C in its solid form (the tablet) and consider it as common and simple to use as aspirin. Unfortunately, when vitamin C is no longer in its solid form but instead dissolved in water, it is no longer simple and easy to use. Within days a solution of vitamin C begins to deactivate and lose its pharmacological effect. It is for this reason that so few cosmetic formulations use vitamin C. The ones that do use vitamin C, use a quantity so small that it is inconsequential.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a water soluble, vitamin C derivative which is stable and can easily be formulated into skin care products. It is a phosphate ester of natural vitamin C which is easily hydrolyzed to vitamin C by the phosphatase enzymes normally present in the skin.

There is ample evidence demonstrating that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate behaves exactly the same in biological systems as vitamin C. It has been shown to promote collagen formation in the skin. It has also been shown to have the same skin lightening effect and anti-oxidant behavior as that of ascorbic acid. It is simply a stable form of vitamin C that is capable of being topically applied.