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Skin & the Aging Process
Compiled by Dr. Dennis T Sepp

Skin changes that we used to consider permanent and inevitable like wrinkles, age spots, and sagging skin, no longer have to be. Proper skin care, like proper diet, can revitalize your complexion and help you feel and look younger than your biological age.

Solar Radiation Damage

The most important first step that you can take to improve and maintain your skin is to protect it from the skin-damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation produced by the sun. There is no question that overexposure to UV radiation causes damage deep in the skin that can result in the premature appearance of aging skin. To avoid looking older before your time, begin by protecting your face and neck with at least SPF 15 protection on a daily basis.

There are two types of skin damaging UV rays: UVA and UVB. UVB radiation is the stronger of the two and is the culprit responsible for the typical sunburn that you may get at the beach. Its damage (sunburn) is usually visible within 4-8 hours and occurs primarily in the upper layers of the skin. Most sunscreens are designed to primarily block UVB rays.

UVA rays are not as energetic as UVB and, as a consequence, cause little sunburn or skin reddening. On the other hand, UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin. The damage they cause is on a cellular level, occurring slowly and accumulating over a period of time. UVA radiation induces the formation of free radicals that, in turn, attack the lipids in the skin. The resulting damage gives rise to the visible signs of aging such as wrinkles and thickened skin. The skin's natural defenses against these free radicals are ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). These two vitamins are potent anti-oxidants that intercept the free radicals before they can do much damage. Vitamin C protects significantly better against UVA phototoxicity than vitamin E. Vitamin E, on the other hand, is more efficient against UVB.

Free Radical Damage

The body is constantly waging war against free radicals: against those induced by UV radiation, those found in environmental toxins that we are exposed to on a daily basis, and even the free radicals that the body produces as by-products of biochemical metabolism. The point is, there is not always enough vitamin C and E to put out all the fires. During times of severe distress, the body does not consider preventing wrinkles a primary concern. For this reason, it is important that these two essential vitamins be incorporated into your daily skin care regimen. There are forms of vitamins E and C that can be topically applied and are capable of being absorbed into the skin. Get in the habit of using them daily.

Vitamin C to the Rescue

Vitamin C is a necessary component for the growth of new tissue, the formation of collagen, and the healing of wounds. Research indicates that creams with high doses of vitamin C can smooth skin and give it a younger, firmer look. This is apparently due to increased collagen production. Vitamin C can effectively stimulate collagen and elastin tissue in the dermis layer, making it appear smoother and plumper. As a result, the appearance of wrinkles and sagging is reduced. Vitamin C creams are particularly effective at hiding the light wrinkles around the eyes. Several studies have shown that vitamin C can boost the production of collagen as well as strengthen the collagen strands, making them more resilient. There is also evidence showing that vitamin C  increases the rate of collagen synthesis.

Vitamin C creams are especially effective when used on the skin of people who smoke. Research has shown that smoking severely depletes the body's store of vitamin C. Vitamin C creams are also very effective for people whose skin may be too sensitive to use hydroxy acid products. The "C" creams are much gentler than the alpha-hydroxy acid exfoliants. The "C" creams are also excellent for use after severe sunburn. There are studies that show that after severe UVA / UVB exposure, the skin is depleted of its vitamin C. In all these cases be aware that the vitamin C that is used in these applications must be stable in a topical formula, must be absorbable through the skin, and must be present in a sufficiently high concentration.